Varnasi, the Sacred City

From Kodaikanal, I went to the east coast of India to a city called Pondicherry. I've been in India since January 7, and this was the one place that I couldn't get out of quick enough. I was there for two nights, my accommodation was expensive and very dirty. The people working the front desk were unfriendly and not very helpful. This place has been the exception in my travels in India. I went searching in my Lonely Planet for another place to visit, I had about two days to spare. I found a little town about two hours north of Pondicherry called Mamalanapurum. It was a great little town by the sea. I stayed right on the beach, not a 'sun bathing' kind of beach. It was a true fishermen working kind of place. I loved sitting on my deck and watching them mend their nets and going out in their long boats. I got up one morning around 6:00 to watch the sun rise and see all the fishermen doing their morning routines.

This was taken from my deck. The temple in the background was amazing. The location was very different, a temple right by the sea, it was called Shore Temple.

I think the cows like the beach as much as the people. There were always herds of cattle roaming the beach.


This is a Hindu temple, they are like nothing I've ever seen. The colours are amazing.

I took a taxi very early yesterday for my 7:30am flight to Delhi, then on to Varanasi. I've now been in a lot of cities in India, so far I think Varanasi is the most crowded. Getting from the airport to my guest was a feat in itself. The airport is more than a 30 minute ride from the city, an expensive taxi ride, but the guy I was sitting with on the plane was in Varanasi on business and offered me a ride into the city. Then I paid for the taxi from his hotel to the area in the city where I was staying. My place the Shanti Guest House couldn't be reached by car, its down this very narrow lane. From the taxi I had to hire a 'human powered' rickshaw. It's a tricycle with a seat propped up on the back for passengers. The street was full of them. Although I have to say I was quite guilt ridden riding on this thing, the driver had to work so hard. There were times he had to jump of the bike and push it. It kind of worked in his favour though, I paid him twice what he was asking for. The last portion of the journey to Shanti I had to walk. As soon as I got off the rickshaw a man said I will take you to Shanti. I usually refuse these offers, but seeing the maze of lanes in front of me, I accepted his offer. This was a good thing, I would have been lost for days. Another 10Rupee tip and I finally made it to my guest house.

It is on the river Ganges. This river is a very sacred place for many religions but Hindus in particular. The western side of the river is lined with 'ghats'. A ghat is a set of steps that leads down to the river. The ghat that I live near is the main burning ghat. Hindus cremate their loved ones near the Ganges and send their ashes down the river. Most all the cremations happen just about 100 metres from my place. There are buildings in between us so I can't really see it happening. This morning I went down to the river. You would not believe the activity. I first went to the burning ghat. There are about 4-5 fires going at any one time and they are going all day long. Providing the wood has become a huge industry here. I didn't stay for long, it kind of felt that I was imposing on a family funeral. Although there were littering hundreds of people all around. Just a short distance from the burning ghat, people were bathing in the river and also washing their cows. It really is a all purpose kind of place.


Funny note... I ordered a cheese burger off the menu at the restaurant at Shanti, expecting of course a 'cheese burger'. Silly me to expect that. It had two pieces of bread with a patty made of cheese... no beef in sight. Which isn't too surprising I guess given that the cows are revered here.