INdia ... The Conclusion

It's hard to believe that it has been six weeks since I arrived in India. India was amazing, some parts were very easy, others very challenging. Overall it was a very good experience. My last week in India was spent in Varanasi and then Calcutta. Four days in Varanasi is not enough. I spent my time there wandering the ghats. It seemed like they were different every time you walked them. There is just so much activity. They form the core of everything that happens in Varanasi. One day in the week a ghat is devoted to laundry. It was cool to see all the shirts, pants and sarees spread out on lines and on the ground.

From Varanasi, I took a train to Calcutta. I only spent two days here. I lived on Sudder Street, this is the 'tourist' area. Calcutta really surprised me, once again my western notions were shattered in a good way. I think most people think of Calcutta as one big slum. Well, it is far from that. It has theatres, malls, a theme park and huge water park. I'm sure it has the same social issues that any big city has but it is far from a slum. I had a great time here. I met these two ladies in their 50's from Ireland and a guy from Burma. We had a lot of fun together. Only when you travel can you find combinations like that.

India in brief....
- The rule of the road.... there are no rules.... get where you need to go however possible.
- Banana leaves are often used for plates and place mats, new ones every meal.
- First question ALWAYS to me, how many Children do you have? Then, are you married?
When I say no, Why? How old are you and usually how much money do you make. You don't really have to know someone well to be asked these questions, I've been asked by rickshaw drivers many times.
- Men and women will not sit next to each other in public places, on buses or trains. They will always re-arrange seating to accommodate this.
- Getting on a public bus is 'CRAZY', the people literally just storm the door, with elbows flying.
- If you are in an Indian home, you are constantly being asked, 'Are you ok?' 'Do you need anything to drink/eat?' You are treated very well.

Sarees on laundry day

From the back of my rickshaw, its difficult to capture on camera just how crowded the streets were.

Here I am on the ghats in Varanasi.

Laundry day

This temple is seriously leaning.

Varnasi, the Sacred City

From Kodaikanal, I went to the east coast of India to a city called Pondicherry. I've been in India since January 7, and this was the one place that I couldn't get out of quick enough. I was there for two nights, my accommodation was expensive and very dirty. The people working the front desk were unfriendly and not very helpful. This place has been the exception in my travels in India. I went searching in my Lonely Planet for another place to visit, I had about two days to spare. I found a little town about two hours north of Pondicherry called Mamalanapurum. It was a great little town by the sea. I stayed right on the beach, not a 'sun bathing' kind of beach. It was a true fishermen working kind of place. I loved sitting on my deck and watching them mend their nets and going out in their long boats. I got up one morning around 6:00 to watch the sun rise and see all the fishermen doing their morning routines.

This was taken from my deck. The temple in the background was amazing. The location was very different, a temple right by the sea, it was called Shore Temple.

I think the cows like the beach as much as the people. There were always herds of cattle roaming the beach.


This is a Hindu temple, they are like nothing I've ever seen. The colours are amazing.

I took a taxi very early yesterday for my 7:30am flight to Delhi, then on to Varanasi. I've now been in a lot of cities in India, so far I think Varanasi is the most crowded. Getting from the airport to my guest was a feat in itself. The airport is more than a 30 minute ride from the city, an expensive taxi ride, but the guy I was sitting with on the plane was in Varanasi on business and offered me a ride into the city. Then I paid for the taxi from his hotel to the area in the city where I was staying. My place the Shanti Guest House couldn't be reached by car, its down this very narrow lane. From the taxi I had to hire a 'human powered' rickshaw. It's a tricycle with a seat propped up on the back for passengers. The street was full of them. Although I have to say I was quite guilt ridden riding on this thing, the driver had to work so hard. There were times he had to jump of the bike and push it. It kind of worked in his favour though, I paid him twice what he was asking for. The last portion of the journey to Shanti I had to walk. As soon as I got off the rickshaw a man said I will take you to Shanti. I usually refuse these offers, but seeing the maze of lanes in front of me, I accepted his offer. This was a good thing, I would have been lost for days. Another 10Rupee tip and I finally made it to my guest house.

It is on the river Ganges. This river is a very sacred place for many religions but Hindus in particular. The western side of the river is lined with 'ghats'. A ghat is a set of steps that leads down to the river. The ghat that I live near is the main burning ghat. Hindus cremate their loved ones near the Ganges and send their ashes down the river. Most all the cremations happen just about 100 metres from my place. There are buildings in between us so I can't really see it happening. This morning I went down to the river. You would not believe the activity. I first went to the burning ghat. There are about 4-5 fires going at any one time and they are going all day long. Providing the wood has become a huge industry here. I didn't stay for long, it kind of felt that I was imposing on a family funeral. Although there were littering hundreds of people all around. Just a short distance from the burning ghat, people were bathing in the river and also washing their cows. It really is a all purpose kind of place.


Funny note... I ordered a cheese burger off the menu at the restaurant at Shanti, expecting of course a 'cheese burger'. Silly me to expect that. It had two pieces of bread with a patty made of cheese... no beef in sight. Which isn't too surprising I guess given that the cows are revered here.

From the Beach to the Sky

It has been a busy week. I spent most of last week in the Kerela region in the southern part of India on a beach called Varkala. Its a beautiful beach surrounded by cliffs. All the places to stay are on the cliff side. It was a very chilled out place. I found great accommodation for 300 Rupees, about $6.I ate my meals here most days, it was called the Sunshine Restaurant. The servers were amazing, happy and very welcoming.

I left Varkala last Thursday and headed to Tirunelvelli. It was two train rides and about a 6 hour journey. I visited with a family in Tirunelvelli. It was an amazing experience to spend a few days living with an Indian family. They were so kind to me. Always concerned about if I had enough to eat and drink. The father and mother of the family are Salvation Army pastors. On Monday I got an opportunity to attend a wedding that he was officiating. It was another of those experiences that you can't believe that you are in the middle of. First the Groom arrived at the church being led by a band that consisted of three drums, cymbals and a saxaphone. The bride was next to arrive. After the meal we were fed some great food. The 'heat' in the food made me sweat but it was great. It was all very festive. I felt very priviledged to be a part of their day.


The 'happy' couple.

During the wedding, all the people sat on the floor. The colours of the ladies' saris were amazing. Its difficult to capture it in a photo.



Trains in India is the main mode of transportation. I always choose sleeper class, which is just one step up from the bottom. Its cheap, but very basic. The long rides can be back breaking and it seems that all the rides are very long. A 150km journey can take up to six hours.

I left Tirunelvelli yesterday (Tuesday) for Kodaikanal. Sometimes getting around is a challenge. This was a train ride and a four hour bus ride. The region is Tamil Nadu and the main language is Tamil, the problem is that they have a different alphabet. Signs are most often in Tamil, so reading street signs and travel information is almost impossible. I arrived at the bus station to catch my bus to Kodaikanal. Again all the information was in Tamil. I talked to a lot of people, with everyone giving me different information. There were two Indian guys that were travelling to the same place, so I stuck to them like glue. Eventually I ended up on the right bus. Kodaikanal is 2100 metres above sea level. The climb up the mountain was interesting. The view from the top is amazing.


This is my view out the front door at Kodaikanal.